1984
It was a warm day in July. I was a nanny in Wiesbaden for an American military family (friends of my parents) for the summer. I was sixteen. The family had a close friend (who became a good friend of mine, too), whom I’ll here dub “B”, who greatly enjoyed spelunking, short wave radio, and going on what nowadays would be called “extreme” history excursions.
B and I spent many hours, standing outside by his car evenings, discussing novels, poetry, philosophy, and Monty Python. And he took me spelunking through Maginot Line fortresses (highly illegal, but fascinating, and the best possible way to personalize history). We climbed WWII ruins—giant bridges that were bombed to still-impressively towering rubble—and ate tinned rations atop them, while listening to cassettes on my boom box and laughing over “Bloom County”. We radioed my family via three or four other short wave radio operators, relaying a ‘howdy’ from faraway Germany (this was long before cell phones and the internet, during the reign of the Commodore 64 and small BBS networks). We watched Bastille fireworks reflecting on a lake beside which we camped.
On this day in July, we (the C family, B, and I) were all in the middle of a weekend trip that included visiting the only two Maginot Fortresses that were legally open for exploration. On this day, we were on the return trip, and stopped in Bavaria, hoping to catch the Oberammergau Passionspiel. That was a no-go, so we wandered around Oberammemrgau and Garmisch, then headed to Dachau to absorb the Konzentrations Lager. I was undone. We spent the greater part of a day wandering the grounds of the camp. Two days earlier, I could “hear” the cannons, the machine guns, the explosions of the war, as I picked my way across a farmer’s field beneath which tours were exploring the Hackenberg fortress. I about jumped out of my skin as the gun turret I was sitting on began to rise, like it would whenever a French soldier was ordered to fire on advancing troops. Today, as I stood long before the ovens, I could smell death. I walked through the “showers,” meditated over the firing range, and absorbed every photograph and monument as if through my pores. I counted the steps from the huge platz where roll call was taken, along the long tree-lined avenue, to the back of the camp where monuments to Jews, Protestants, and Catholics were now standing. This was a smaller camp, but was itself immense, a ghost town for a city of death.
How many of my family died here? I wondered. How many killed here? I’m primarily German with a small branch of Jewish heritage. How many walked through here in open-mouthed horror, as they liberated the camp? Every part of my being resonated with the might of the atrocity. Continue reading →